Dubrovnik - grad po mjeri svih osim osoba s invaliditetom

Foto: Absolute-croatia.com

Već neko vrijeme vodim ovaj svoj blog i podosta sam do sada svaštario s temama. Pisao sam o iskustvima s Airbnb-em, s Croatia Airlinesom, pisao sam o Splitu i o Mljetu, ali mi do sada nije palo na pamet reći ponešto o Dubrovniku, gradu u kojem doduše ne živim, ali u kojem provodim poprilično vremena.

Kada se govori o Dubrovniku u kontekstu prilagođenosti kretanju osoba s invaliditetom, prije bilo kakve analize, dvije stvari treba imati na umu. Prva je reljef, a druga arhitektura.

Naime, ogromna je razlika u reljefu jednog južnodalmatinskog grada poput Dubrovnika i grada na sjeveru ili istoku Hrvatske (npr. Zagreb, Varaždin ili Osijek) koji su u najvećem dijelu potpuno ravni pa nije ni čudno da se ogroman broj ljudi njima kreće biciklima ili rolama što u našem gradu nikako nije slučaj. Vrlo rijetko se Dubrovčani odlučuju na bicikl kao sredstvo prijevoza po gradu što uopće nije čudno ako uzmemo u obzir sve one uzbrdice, nizbrdice i skaline, a ako je takva situacija s relativno brzim i komfornim biciklima, onda možete zamisliti u kakvom su položaju ljudi u invalidskim kolicima koji moraju uložiti i deset puta veći napor za svladavanje slične prepreke.

Dubrovačka arhitektura rezultat je prebogate povijesti grada, ali također i jedan od problema s kojima se susreću ljudi sa smanjenom pokretljivošću. Sve one stare zgrade, uske kamenom popločane uličice i izlizane stepenice jednostavno nisu predviđene za kolica i to je nešto što jednostavno moraš prihvatiti.

Ono što također prihvaćamo, a ne bismo trebali su očajno uređeni pločnici, pješački prijelazi, ulazi u zgrade i ostala infrastruktura u „novijim“ dijelovima grada.

Dobar primjer ovoga je Vukovarska ulica, jedna od najvažnijih i najprometnijih ulica u gradu čiji je pločnik toliko uništen i razrovan da osoba u kolicima i uz maksimalan oprez na bubrezima osjeti svaku udubinu i izbočinu na koju će neminovno naići. 

Foto: Nportal

Na fotografiji se lijepo vidi na u nastavku ulice, na desnoj strani kada se prođe zgrada OTP banke, pločnik ni ne postoji.

Prometna (ne)kultura

Parking je u Dubrovniku sam po sebi veliki problem i izvor svakodnevnih sukoba i materijala kojim portali pune svoje stranice, ali ako ste u invalidskim kolicima, stvari su još mrvicu kompliciranije.

Parkiranje na mjestu za invalide postalo je toliko često da bi ga trebalo uvesti pod nematerijalnu kulturnu baštinu grada s tim da ne znam jesu li mi gori oni „evo samo sam poš'o po cigare dva minuta“ ili one „sjela sam na kavu, dolazim za dvije ure“. 

Dva sasvim lijepa primjera:

Foto: Dubrovački Dnevnik / Dubrovački Vjesnik 

Parkiranje na nogostupe je također jedna od omiljenih disciplina svakog viđenijeg krkana i također nešto što komunalni redari propuštaju kazniti. Ni u Cavtatu btw situacija nije mnogo bolja samo što se radi o manjem gradu pa su sukladno tome i sranja koja se događaju proporcionalno manja. 

Foto: Dubrovniknet

Ono kad ti prilagode, a bolje da nisu

Neprilagođenost javnih institucija Grada (dakle zgrada Suda, Policije, Zavoda za zapošljavanje, gradskog poglavarstva, Županije isl.) tema je koja zaslužuje poseban post, ali sada neću pisati o tome. 

Pisao bih o situaciji u kojoj ti nešto prilagode, ali kad to vidiš u praksi, dođe ti da se lijepo zahvališ i podvijena repa odeš doma. Dobar primjer toga je Cinestar Dubrovnik koji ima riješen parking, ima prilagođen WC, ima kino dvoranu u koju se može ući s kolicima, ali kada jednom u nju uđeš, dočeka te blagi šok. Dakle mjesto postoji i to na način da je ostavljen prostor u koji se može „ušetati“ s kolicima, ali mjesto je toliko izdvojeno da tri metra oko vas nema nikoga, a jedino društvo pri gledanju filma vam je – koš za smeće ❤

Postoji još primjera polovične prilagodbe poput rampa koje su primjerenije skijaškim skokovima nego invalidskim kolicima ili mini liftova za ulazak u neke kulturne ustanove koji eto postoje, ali baš sad nema onoga maloga koji time upravlja J

Po meni, polovično je riješen i javni gradski prijevoz pri čemu je Grad nabavio suvremene autobuse s rampama, ali nije dovoljno educirao vozače pa je veća vijest da je neki od njih pomogao invalidu pri ulasku nego obrnuto. Polovičnost se ogleda i u već spomenutim pločnicima pa jednom kad izađeš iz autobusa, vlada ona snađi se druže jer ponekad je vrlo teško doći od autobusne stanice do mjesta koje si naumio posjetiti. 

Foto: Dubrovački Vjesnik

A nagradu za najbolji pločnik u gradu odnosi Ulica Branitelja Dubrovnika. Tko se ovuda uspije popeti ili spustiti u kolicima zaslužuje nastup na paraolimpijadi bez kvalifikacija. 

Pozitivni primjeri

Kažu da gdje ima volje ima i načina, a kao dobar primjer te izreke mogu poslužiti i neke od fotografija niže. Znam da je Dubrovnik jedan od naših najstarijih, a sigurno i naš najljepši grad i svaka građevinska intervencija u njemu trebala bi biti pomno isplanirana. Ali to nipošto ne bi trebao biti razlog da se ne napravi ništa.

Donja (nekvalitetna) fotografija prikazuje legendarni Taj Mahal čiji je ulaz sasvim lijepo prilagođen invalidskim kolicima iako se radi o jednom od najvažnijih spomenika svjetske kulturne baštine. Dakle, ako može Taj Mahal, može i Knežev dvor. 

Još jedan primjer jednostavnosti i genijalnosti je i ova rampa uklopljena u stubište koja je, osim što super izgleda, i sasvim funkcionalna – dakle ne prestrma ni preuska. Jednostavnim guglanjem nađe se bezbroj sličnih primjera i zanimljivih rješenja arhitektonskih izazova za čije prevladavanje često nije potrebna hrpa novca već samo malo pameti i dobre volje.

Baš onoga čega nam kronično nedostaje. 

Foto: Pinterest

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ENGLISH TRANSLATION 

Dubrovnik - a city that's perfect for everyone except disabled people 

I've been running this blog for a quite some time and so far I engaged with various topics. I have written about experience with Airbnb, with Croatia Airlines, I wrote about Split and about Mljet, but so far I didn't write anything about Dubrovnik, a city where I do not live but where I spend a lot of time.

When talking about Dubrovnik in the context of adapting to the movement of people with disabilities, before any analysis, two things need to be kept in mind. The first is relief and the other architecture.

There is a huge difference in the relief of a southern Dalmatian city such as Dubrovnik and a cities in the north or east of Croatia (eg Zagreb, Varaždin or Osijek), which are mostly flat, so it is not surprising that a huge number of people are moving by bicycles or rolls which in our city is by no means the case. It is very unlikely that the Dubrovnik people will choose a bicycle as a means of transportation around the city, which is not surprising if we take into account all the ups and downs and especially the stairs, and if this is a situation with relatively fast and comfortable bikes, then you can imagine the position of people in wheelchair as they have to invest and ten times more effort to overcome similar obstacles.

Dubrovnik's architecture is a result of the city's rich history, but also one of the problems people with reduced mobility face. All those old buildings, narrow stone paved alleys, and sloping stairs are simply not designed for wheelchairs, and that's something you simply have to accept.

What we also accept, but we certanly shouldn't are awfully decorated sidewalks, pedestrian crossings, entering buildings and other infrastructure in the "newer" parts of the city.

A good example of this is Vukovarska Street, one of the most important and busiest streets in the city, the pavement of which is so devastated that the person in the wheelchair will feel every hole on it's kidneys, even with the utmost caution in movement.

The photo clearly shows that on the right of the street the pavement does not even exist.

Traffic chaos 

Parking in Dubrovnik itself is a major problem and a source of everyday conflicts and materials that portals fill your pages, but if you are in a wheelchair, things are still more complicated.

Parking on disabled spaces has become so often that it should be brought under the intangible cultural heritage of the city and I do not know who's worse, people that say "it will be just two minutes, I just came here to buy smokes" or the ones that park there and spend two hours drinking coffee.

Parking on the sidewalks is also one of the favorite disciplines of every other redneck and also something that communal officers fail to punish. Even in Cavtat, situation is not much better, it's just a smaller town, and accordingly, the shit that is happening is proportionally smaller.

When they adjust something but you wish they haven't 

The failure to adjust public institutions of the City (that is, the building of the Court, the Police, the Employment Service, the City Government, the County isl.) is a topic that deserves a special post, but now I will not write about it.

I would rather write about a situation when they adjust something for you but when you see it in practice, you rather say thank you and run home in disappointment.  A good example of this is Cinestar Dubrovnik, which has a parking lot, has a toilet, has a cinema hall that can be reached with a wheelchair, but once you enter, you will receive a slight shock. So the place for wheelchairexists in such a way that there is a space that can be "walked in" with the wheelchair, but the place is so isolated that there's no one three meters around you and the only company you have during the movie is - the garbage can ❤

There are more examples of semi-adjustments such as ramps that are more appropriate for ski jumps than for wheelchairs or mini-lifts to enter some cultural facilities that exist, but for some reason, the guy that manages this is almost always somewhere else :))

If you ask me, the public transport was partially solved also whereby the City acquired modern buses with ramp but did not educate enough drivers, so the bigger news is when some of them help disabled person when entering but vice versa. Semi-adjustment is also reflected in the already mentioned sidewalks, and once you leave the bus, you are on your own because sometimes it is very difficult to get from the bus station to the place you are going to visit.

The award for the best pavement in the town is the Branitelj Street of Dubrovnik. Whoever is able to climb or lower a wheelchair in this street is deserved to qualify for Paralympics.

Positive examples 

They say where there's a will, there's a way, and some of the photos below can serve as a good example of this saying. I know that Dubrovnik is one of our oldest, and certainly our most beautiful city and every construction intervention in it should be carefully planned. But that should not be a reason for doing nothing.

The lower (low quality) photo shows the legendary Taj Mahal whose entrance is beautifully adapted to the wheelchairs although it is one of the most important monuments of world cultural heritage. So if the Taj Mahal can do it, then the Rector's Palace also can.

Another example of simplicity and ingenuity is this ramp embedded in a staircase that, apart from being super-looking, is quite functional. With simple googling, there are countless similar examples and interesting solutions to the architectural challenges for which overcoming often does not require a bunch of money but just a little mind and goodwill.

Just what we chronically miss.